Prague Edition: Volume 1

Total Step Count: 42,528

Total Mileage: 19.2

Ok, the way I’m a sucker for an old European city! Give me a dark alley way opening up to a courtyard and a big wooden door which leads to a 5 story walk up. The apartment will be bright with floor to ceiling windows and a plant-lined balcony barely big enough for a table and chairs where I take my morning coffee with the views of a small city square.

I really don't think I'm asking for much!

Lucky for me, Prague provided these options in abundance. My head on a swivel as we walked through the narrow cobble stoned streets, catching glances through every open entry-way nestled between the tall and colorful buildings. Occasionally being reminded to look down so as to not trip directly on my face!

Part of my intrigue for Prague was the fact that a city, built up between the 11th -18th centuries, has much of their original buildings and architecture still in tact even after enduring many wars and occupations over the centuries.

The City Hall in the Old Town Square which also includes a beautiful gothic tower and the astrological clock was one buildings affected by the war. Having been a spot for safety and hiding during WW2, the building was shot at and caught fire in 1945 after word got round about the safe keeping of those seeking protection. The residents of Prague decided not to rebuild but in its place; a small park with several trees were planted to honor the lives that were lost.

Around the corner to the left of the City Hall is where the ever popular "Astrological" clock is situated. Some people know this as the "Astronomical" clock but that isn't entirely correct as it shows the Earth at the center of the Universe with the Sun and the Moon moving around the planet instead of around the sun. Having been in operation since 1410, it showcases 4 different global clocks as well as all the zodiac signs indicating which "season" and which "moon" phase we are in. Currently we are in "Taurus Season" and our most recent full moon in Scorpio.

We stumbled upon the clock on accident our first day walking around. Immediately intrigued with everything it had going on and unable to recall which zodiac symbol belonged to which sign, we kept stepping closer and closer, really trying to dissect this situation. As such, we were completely oblivious to the massive crowd forming behind us. Only to hear the clock strike at the top of the hour and see these blue squares sitting above of the clock open up showcasing 12 scary-ass apostle puppets move through the windows. The most entertaining part to this 3 minute charade? The gold leaf rooster at the top center of the clock offering a little "cock-a-doodle-doo" signifying the end of the show. Definitely providing for a good laugh but somehow highly underwhelming at the same time given its popularity.  

On the first full day, after a lovely brunch at a local spot called "The Venue," we opted for a free walking tour of the Old City. In case you are wondering how to find it, google: Free Walking Tour Prague. That’s it. That’s the business. Probably the first one to pop up in your search. We met with our English speaking guide, Jan (pronounced: yawn) a young man growing up in Rural Czechia, eager to give it a go in the big city so as to avoid the fate of "fisherman" like every other person in his town. Meeting at the Powder Tower, a beautifully detailed gothic-era entry point into the old city, we set out on our adventure. First order of business, call out the scams.

1. Avoid any brand-less ATMs or those operated under "Euronet." They over charge on fees and only allow you to pull out a large sum of money. Same with the exchange kiosks, being told that we should always check the exchange rate of our local currency before agreeing to the exchange.

2. Be wary of the trdelniks (think: turtle neck) dessert shops at every corner of the Old Town. Sold as a Prague staple, these deep fried donut cones were really only introduced to the area 20 years ago. You will do better to experience this treat in Budapest, where it originated. Jan proclaims "and especially do not get the ice cream they push along with the cone. You'll just end up sticky and irritated as it will inevitably leak all over you." Noted, Jan. Noted.

Continuing along our...wait for it...cues music...twoooo hour toooour...😉

We learned about the "mascot" of Czechia - The Little Mole. Which was a cartoon created in 1957 about a mischievous mole and his various adventures. This cartoon was in production until 2002. We also learned about the famous Czech liqueur, Becherovka, now nicknamed "The Flu" after President Milos Zeman enjoyed it a little too much that he was swaying, confused and passed out in front of a crowd during an exhibition. His publicist thought they could get away with saying he was sick instead of being shit-faced wasted! Haha!

As we made our way through old town, we learned of the many name changes the Country has assumed during the last century. Following the end of WW1 in 1918, Czechoslovakia was formed, after gaining its independence from the Austrian-Hungarian Empire. In 1993, the Czech Republic was formed when they split from Slovakia. This split is nicknamed the "velvet divorce" as the separation happened without violence or push back from either side. Further still, Czech Republic was legally shortened to Czechia for ease of conversation. Both terms can still be used today.

We reached a small pause on the tour long enough for a toilet break and a snack...which to Ruth and I meant we could surely find a pint of the Pilsner-Urquell we had really come to enjoy! Light, refreshing and with a low ABV, it quickly became the staple beverage of this first leg of the trip!

Back on the tour, we continued our journey into the Jewish quarter. I have always found these neighborhoods fascinating, in all the ways the word can be used, as they often showcase how tightnight the communities were. How bustling, thriving and business oriented the Jewish people were and still are today even after enduring such atrocities of the past.

Our first stop in the Jewish Quarter was at a Franz Kafka memorial for a photo op with the tour group. Kafka is a popular Czech Jewish writer and novelist. Oddly enough, it is said that 90% of his works were burned by him without ever being published. After WW2, a few of his remaining work became popular in German-Speaking countries and you will often find his novels under the German section of authors. However, we are now under strict instruction from Jan that if we ever find his work in the German section, we are to take it and move it to the Czech section of the book store. That rule now rests on you as well, dear reader.

We were shown the "Old New" synagogue - yes that is the official name. And also the clock gifted by the Catholic Church, which assuming since the Jewish read right to left that they in fact also told time from right to left. Poor assumption, I'd say. They decided to keep it as a funny reminder. We walked passed the very compact Jewish cemetery. Gravestones so squished together they lean and press in various directions. Having had to build up rather than out, the cemetery sits about 10ft higher than the town as some sections have 12+ layers to them...and by "layers", I'm sure you catch my drift.

I find these free tours to be an excellent way to explore the city. They allow you to pay what you feel the tour was worth, which also means tour guides will usually give you everything they got to make sure it was worth your time, attention and money. These tours are also a great way to learn about different neighborhoods, eateries, pubs and shopping areas that tend to favor the local businesses rather than the super expensive tourist traps.

In less than 24 hours, Prague managed to captivate my heart and fascinate my mind with it's rich history and philosophies on how to live a life.

Cheers!